A troupe of ballerinas in lampshade-sundress tutus and jail-striped tights ... A guard of grey-suited henchmen, two playing toy xylophones ... All pale as chalk and turbaned in shrunken silver salon-hairdryers ... These figures arranged themselves with dreamy precision amid the set of warped mirrors and hypnotic spiral discs, accompanied by an eerie score by Penderecki. The ballerinas began to bourée in slow circles, as if each
in turn were emerging from her own musical jewelry box.
This lengthy introduction set the stage - quite literally - for the breathtaking presentation of Thom Browne's S/S 13 Collection.

This season's theme took motifs of a seaside picnic at grandma's cottage, and translated them into garments that exemplified a masterful synthesis
of art, craft, refinement, and whimsy. Sea creatures, waves, outdoor sports and vintage sportswear mingled with antique housewares like gingham tablecloths, floral bedspreads, baskets and sun-hats - some pictured, others abstracted. Fancy was the dominant concept, both noun and adjective, and the effect was a disturbing but enchanting dream-sequence of memories, sublimations, and inventions.

"Wearability" was not the operative word here. Indeed, one would hardly expect to find many of these elaborately detailed ensembles outside the stately New York Public Library hall, at least not as full looks.
But perhaps that was the point - the collection embodied sheer exhibitionism entrenched in couture tradition - the peculiar
and delightful showmanship that is Thom Browne's unmistakable signature.

- Arielle

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